YOU ARE HERE
You’re now in a select coastal slice of the most northern part of the most northern county in England, long prized and fought over by the English, the Scots and Vikings for its clement and fertile farmland, and as a ransom strip for travel up and down the country.
We have a rich landscape of castles, wild contrasts in terrain, and world famous views, all snuggled up next to the border with Scotland. Here are a some of our thoughts and suggestions for exploration from your base at Emble. Enjoy your stay!
A-Z
Aln
In Alnwick ('Annick') you'll find, of course, the Castle and Gardens. Where the river joins the sea at Alnmouth ('Alanmouth'), we have two of our Books by the Sea little free libraries. The beach at Alnmouth is often wild and windy. Strong currents make it unsuitable for paddling and swimming, but the sands are vast and great for a walk. Visit The Old School Gallery and pick up a coffee and artisanal things to eat from Scott's Deli.
borderlands
North Northumberland is characterised by being a tumultous liminal point between land and sea, England and Scotland, Anglo-Saxons and Vikings, incumbents and invaders. Much of its history and culture has been shaped by this geography.
The Scottish border runs down to the south-west of the county. So, here at Emble you are actually further north than a chunk of Scotland.
coast & country
The Northumbrian coastline is, of course, a headline draw. In addition to the aforementioned Alnmouth, our favourite beaches include Bamburgh, Longhoughton (Sugar Sands), Ross Back Sands and, of course, Embleton Bay. But there is lots to enjoy inland, too, among the hills and valleys, towards the Cheviots and along the River Tweed. The drive under the wind turbines from North Charlton to Hepburn is very close and really shows how quickly the terrain changes - amazing views!
dunstanburgh
We are lucky to have our view from the cottages at Embleton punctuated by Dunstanburgh Castle on the horizon. It's just a short drive from the Blue House and is our favourite castle in the world.
embleton bay
It's a lovely walk along the headland, dunes and beach between Craster and Low Newton, taking in Dunstanburgh Castle en route. There are pubs at both ends, which is nice! (See Jolly Fisherman at Craster and The Ship or Joiners’s Arms at Newton by the Sea). You can walk over the dunes to The Ship from our cottages at Embleton.
ford & etal
A trip around the Ford & Etal estate could include Hay Farm Heavy Horse Centre, Heatherslaw Corn Mill, Lady Waterford Hall and Etal Castle. A light railway runs from the mill to Etal Castle. The quaint villages of Ford & Etal are picture perfect.
The Cheviot Brewery is also based here. Tours available, along with taproom and woodfired pizza at certain times on Fridays and Saturdays. Please check ahead.
gefrin
The royal township of the seventh century Anglo-Saxon kings, palace of King Edwin and his successors, Gefrin was a huge complex of timber halls, the exact location of which was not found until 1949 making it one of the most remarkable archaelogical discoveries of the 20th century.
Head for Kirknewton at the foot of Yeavering Bell and you'll pass the site. There's a feeling you'll get when you walk around there. The award-winning Ad Gefrin Museum in Wooler tells the story (and also houses a distillery making Northumbrian whisky and gin)
howick
Howick Hall is the historic home of the Grey family - and a succession of Earls Grey. The tea blend 'Earl Grey' was named after the second, Charles, who was British Prime Minister in the 1830s. The story goes that he was presented with the bergamot-infused blend by a grateful Chinese Mandarin.
The gardens at Howick Hall are particularly notable for a huge arboretum featuring a vast collection of trees from all over the world. There are various short walks through the grounds. You can also walk from here along the coast to Sugar Sands.
Ingram
Ingram in the Breamish Valley is seeped in history all the way back to Neolithic times. A significant archeological and farming landscape, with cattle and deer among its inhabitants. Ingram Valley Safari guided tours are rightly popular.
Jeckyll
Gertrude Jekyll's garden sits below Lindisfarne Castle. It's tiny, not a day out in itself but worth taking a moment to enjoy the plants and vantage point. She knew what she was about.
Kippers
The famous Craster Kipper is still smoked in the harbour village’s 130 year-old smokehouses. Kipper fillets and other traditionally smoked fish can be bought from the shop there.
On the subject of fish, our friend Robin runs seafood trailer, Creel & Reel. Catch him in the Links car park, just south of Bamburgh Castle.
Lindisfarne
The Holy Island of Lindisfarne was home to some of the earliest monks, and was a significant foundational site for Christianity in England. It was savagely pillaged in a Viking raid in 793.
The castle dates to 1550 and was of strategic military importance until 1893. It was later rebuilt by the founder of Country Life magazine to the design of architect Edwin Lutyens.
The island is reached by a tidal causeway and is entirely cut off when the tide comes in and covers the road twice a day. So, plan you're trip carefully and do not get caught out. (It does happen!) The tide timetable can be viewed here.
There's an ancient feel to Holy Island. Take in the priory, church and castle, of course, but also spend some time away from the crowds.
Moo!
We do actually farm here too!
We have cattle and sheep, as well as cereal crops - producing quality food for your plate.
The Blue House is the farmhouse at our steading in North Sunderland.
Nanny
The Long Nanny is a special local burn. Its outlet on Beadnell Bay is a significant breeding site for some of the UK's rarest seabirds - Arctic Terns and Little Terns. Find out more via the National Trust.
Oysters
High quality oysters from Ross Farm within the Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve on a site believed to be the location of the Lindisfarne monks' oyster beds.
Fresh Lindisfarne Oysters are available all year round and can be boxed up for collection but you will need to place an order and arrange before turning up.
Puffins
Need no explanation! Farne Island boat trips launch from Seahouses. (Puffins are only on the islands during breeding season, May-July). See sea bird colonies, seals, sometimes dolphins and, if you’re very lucky, orcas. The Farne Islands are looked after by the National Trust, who can provide further information.
READ
You probably know by now that we love books. Emble Arts' network of free Little Libraries (Books by the Sea and River) are dotted all along the coast and River Tweed. Look out for the black huts. Other bookish tips include Barter Books in Alnwick, one of Britain's largest secondhand bookshops, located in a former Victorian railway station. Also in Alnwick, The Accidental Bookshop. Berwick has a really good book scene, too, with several independent bookshops and an annual literary festival (usually in October).
STARGAZING
Don't forget to look up! The stars here are spectacular on a clear night. Emble Farms is working in partnership with the Northumberland Coast National Landscape team on dark skies projects designed to protect and engage. Try our stargazing chairs!
Tweed
The Tweed is a majesty - not just for its fabric and the fishing. Follow it upstream and see Horncliffe, Kelso, Norham, Coldstream, St. Boswells, Melrose, Selkirk.
The historic border town of Berwick-upon-Tweed sits on the river and within fortified Elizabethan Walls. You can ‘walk the walls’, or follow the Lowry Trail to discover how he was inspired by the town.
Keep an eye on The Maltings listings for cinema, theatre and exhibition events. The Granary Gallery presents exhibitions throughout the year. Independent shops are on West and Bridge Streets.
A little to the north of Berwick you will find Paxton House. You can park there and pick up one of the footpaths along the banks of the River Tweed. You could walk from here to the Union Chain Bridge and the Chain Bridge Honey Farm (45-60 minutes, or vice versa. We are fans of the honey farm and of the bridge!
Berwick sits on the East Coast mainline (as does Alnmouth) so you can easily travel to Edinburgh for the day by train.
Uhtred
Formidable warrier of the Viking Age - a largely fictional character in The Last Kingdom (Netflix), but one that, nonetheless, brings the real and bloody history of Bebbanburg alive. Bebbanburg (Bamburgh) was once a mighty stronghold and capital of Northumbria, which extended right down to the Humber (hence the name 'Northumbria). Visit Bamburgh Castle for more.
Village
Embleton Village (location of Turner and Calder Cottages) is the site of two historic mills and a former quarry that extracted large amounts of whinstone (dolerite). The cottages sit on the Whin Sill, as do Dunstanburgh, Bamburgh and Lindisfarne castles. Today, Embleton is a quiet village with superb access to the surrounding landscape (and the village shop is nice!)
Wild Cattle
The native breed cattle in the old deer park at Chillingham Castle are completely wild and untamed. They are genetically pure since forever. Visit them! Tours are bookable, booking is advised. In our view, this is one of the top 2 things to do.
